Hi everyone!
Well I’m back from New Zealand and the North Island’s famous Tongariro Northern Circuit. The walk was impressive, with amazing vistas, great facilities and ever changing weather.
The most walked section of the hike is the one day Tongariro Alpine Crossing, and the section where we commenced our walk. The track is difficult through this part, with an ascension of 765 metres to the highest point of 1886 metres. Alpine weather is typically unpredictable, and we certainly experienced this when the day deteriorated from the light rain predicted to sideways rain and low visibility. As this is the section with the best views and access to both the Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe summits, it was disappointing that we weren’t able to enjoy the fruits of our hard earned labour at the time.
Ketatahi Hut was a welcome site, and we quickly got the gas heater fired up and settled down with a cup of tea to warm our bones. Several bedraggled day walkers wandered in and out of the hut over the course of the afternoon, and we all had a laugh at our miserable day in the rain. After a while we ventured outside again and – eureka! – the cloud had cleared and an amazing valley opened up before us. The spectacular scenery and the way it was revealed through the weather made it feel very special, and suddenly all memories of the day’s suffering disappeared. The newly cleared skies also gave us the opportunity to do a bit of exploring, so we wandered down to the soda springs to fill in time before dinner.
Day two saw us backtracking from Ketatahi Hut up to Emerald Lakes where we had been the previous day in the rain and mist. As we completed the climb back up and rounded the bend, the cloud cleared and we saw the volcanoes we’d walked between the day before for the first time. We headed up the slope again in a buoyant mood and checked out the Emerald Lakes and other sights, and even managed to get a few photos too (ok maybe more than a few!). Luckily the mountain god took pity on us and the weather continued to clear to beautiful crisp days for the remaining days of walking.
The following sections to Oturere Hut, then to Waihohonu Hut and finally Whakapapa Village featured a continually changing landscape and varying views of the three volcanoes, which are worth taking the time to enjoy, particularly at sunrise. The weather stayed clear for the rest of the trip, though our last night at Waihohonu Hut was very cool, with one poor camper showing us the frost on his pack as evidence to this.
These other track sections are not as challenging as the Alpine Crossing, though are still of moderate difficulty. As such, a good level of fitness is needed to ensure walkers have the energy to enjoy the full hike. Hut facilities are great along the entire circuit, and include gas cookers and heaters, and comfortable bunks. The well-positioned huts even have scenic decks which make a nice spot for your evening cuppa. The terrain is unusual and striking, with craters lakes and red-rimmed volcanoes the big ticket items, while ice cold creeks and changing plant life provide interesting details. The often barren landscape may not appeal to some, though for others it will be exactly that difference that draws them in. Unique and challenging, I gave this walk a big thumbs up.
Yours in hiking boots,
Climbing the ridge past red crater.
The view from Ketatahi Hut.
First view of the volcanoes - happy days!
Rock cairn with Mt Ruapehu, Mt Ngauruhoe and Red Crater in the background.
Emerald Lakes
The descent from Emerald Lakes.
On the way to Oturere Hut .
Oturere Hut
Sunrise Day 3, Mt Ngauruhoe
Windswept bush in the sand dunes.
The valley on the way to Waihohonu Hut.
Ohinepango Springs
One of the many flowering plants.
Taranaki Falls