What an amazing walk this was – long and arduous with plenty of tough conditions to test us, as well as the physical aspect of climbing 900 metres over 7.5km, then having to go back down again. It was certainly thought provoking to be testing ourselves like this on Anzac Day. We spent a few moments discussing the diggers hardships in battlefields like Kokoda, and promised each other we would limit our complaints because of it.
The morning was a longer than anticipated drive to the trail head on Gourka Road, outside of Malanda. It was dark and raining, and we had assessed the situation by agreeing we would see how the day progressed and would turn around if we felt it was not safe. We set out with a spring in our step, hoping to make up for lost time. The first part of the trail was a mud bath, resulting in some laughter as we sloshed and slipped, while clambering over the occasional tree fallen across the track. The mud eventually subsided as the gradient increased, and it was sometime around here that we noticed the hordes of leeches cartwheeling up our legs, and dropping from the trees in air-raid attacks. After we finished freaking out, more Bushmen was applied and we continued on.
From here, the ascent commenced in earnest. The steep trail consisted of tangled tree roots that form natural staircases up the mountainside. In the middle of one of these climbs, we heard a loud cracking, and a medium sized tree fell around 20 metres away from us. The noise was amazing as it echoed through the rainforest, and really we were lucky to witness it, especially from a safe distance.
The higher we climbed, the more boulder-strewn the trail became, though by this point “trail” is a loose description. Trail markers were present to keep us going the right way, but it was up to us to find the best path between one marker and the next. The boulders required some thought as often the only way was over, though this made for a good change after the steep tree root stairs. Eventually we came to the North West Peak, an open patch where in theory you should have views of the tablelands and the coast – not for us though. On we went.
From here, there were more steep ascents and descents, and more rock hopping with some true climbing required. More boulders, more near vertical sections, more thickly grassed trail sections, and voila! We reached the summit. Again, there was no view through the cloud, but we had the satisfaction of knowing we had made it. After a bite to eat and a bit of a chat we started back down the way we had come.
The way home was a race against the clock to make sure we made it back in sunlight. The downhill, though faster, saw us falling over a lot more as the tree root staircases became treacherously slippery and not at all as helpful as they had been on the way up. The constant pounding of the steep descent tired our legs further and we were ecstatic to finally reach the car.
This is definitely not a track for the unprepared as the physically demanding rough trail has plenty of hazards on it, and is often not a trail at all. Packing light may seem tempting for such a long day, but leaving out emergency and safety equipment is not really sensible.
When the trail guides talk about rock scrambling, take that to mean you will need to climb up and over boulders using tree roots to haul yourself up sometimes near vertical sections. There are also places where you will have to tunnel your way through thick cutting native grasses, which is a test of your nerves as well as your sense of direction. As you near the top this is the norm.
Time is a big factor to consider; we took 6 hours to go up, and another 4 to come down, which is about average pace. Taking into account that sunlight is limited in the rainforest, head torches are a sensible addition to your pack, just in case.
Then of course, there are the leeches. By the hundreds, they will stalk you and clamber up your legs like the marauding blood suckers they are. Take Bushmen, and plenty of it!
So those are the bad bits. The good bits are that you will see pristine rainforest just the way nature intended it, weed free and in perfect harmony, with orchids, crows nest ferns and ancient trees in abundance. The boulders, though treacherous, are marvelous, and you will be lucky to see another person on the track. And of course, you will have made it to the summit of Queensland’s highest peak, which is a great achievement in anyone’s books.
Long and tough, be fit and well prepared and you will enjoy the rewards of this trail.
The start of the track.
On through the rain. 7am in the rainforest is still pretty dark.
The hills are alive... with the sound of leeches...
Brad heading into another boulder hole.
So pretty...
The summit - yay!
Gorillas in the mist - coming back down the North West Peak.
Creek crossing.
Col in a grassy section, smiling through the suffering!
Scenery like this makes the pain worth it.
The aftermath - leech bites and scratches. I think long pants would have been better than shorts for this one.