Archive for the ‘Track Reports’ Category

Trek Sapa

Wednesday, January 18th, 2012

How do I sum up Vietnam? A few things spring to mind: friendly locals, rice paddies, motorbikes, misty mountains, beautiful village houses, gorgeous kids, silken oceans, water buffalo, and delicious food!

As we all arrived at Brisbane airport the excitement was clear. Some of us had never met before, though everyone knew at least one other person in the group. We weren’t all strangers, which made for a great start.

The red bridge leading to Ngoc Son Temple, Hoan Kiem Lake.

Hanoi is a beautiful and interesting city, and the hustle and bustle created by so many motorbikes in the street just added to its charm. Strangely, though chaotic on first impression, this mass of transport has its own order which keeps accidents to almost zero. We were staying in the Old Quarter where the streets are narrow, and old, gnarled trees grow over doorways and drip their long branches into the street. Wherever we walked, street vendors in conical straw hats hurried along with their baskets of wares hanging from springy poles balanced on one shoulder. Nearby Hoan Kiem Lake and its temple island was an obvious reminder of an ancient city history and all these things made for an intriguing city that is distinctly different from home.

Apart from its mix of traditional and modern life, the city has a lot of sites to see, including the almost 1000 year old Temple of Literature, and Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum and grounds, both of which we visited on our city tour, expertly explained by our local guide Thang.

The walk to Cat Cat village.

Sa Pa is a different world again, set in cool misty mountains with women from the ethnic minorities walking the streets, selling their wares, picking up their supplies from the market and sometimes running away from the tourist police! After our first walk to Cat Cat village, many of us honed our trading skills, working out the best and worst way to say yes and no to purchases. It made for some fun, and definitely a few extra purchases occurred due to bad technique.

A jungle clad track

When it was finally time for our big walk we set out with much anticipation. It all started out very civilised, crossing some suspension bridges and walking through villages on cement paths, and remained pretty much that way until lunch which was at a tiny school house. Once we’d eaten and said goodbye to the kids, we were soon in the rice paddies, balancing on the narrow mud walls and trying not to slip off into the mud. The rice paddies eventually gave way to muddy clay tracks that skirted the sides of jungle clad foothills, going up and down, and leading to lots of slipping and sliding, and much laughter. At one point my beloved Canon DSLR camera slipped from my grasp and went cart wheeling down the muddy bank towards the water before I was able to grab the strap. Oops, I didn’t laugh after that one! We all made it through the day, including my camera, albeit a bit dirtier than in the morning, and were greeted by another group of friendly children finishing school for the day in our host village.  Our accommodation was a lovely Tay house where our cook and the host family put on a fantastic feast with many different courses, including the most delicious tofu dish I’ve ever tasted (we were all in agreeance about that).

One of the many suspension bridges.

The good food theme continued on for breakfast where we were surprised with crepes and fresh fruit. Lucky we were walking all day! This day saw us walking the tracks between villages, which allowed us some interaction with the locals as they went about their usual day. At times, we walked through jungle patches with immensely tall bamboo clumps which I couldn’t get enough of (you only have to see my photos to realise that). Our lunch stop was a spot on the side of a hill overlooking the valley, and gave us the opportunity to relax while we ate. For a treat, Thang had picked up some sugar cane in one of the villages and he cut up some billets for us all to chew on as dessert.

Misty rice paddies

Off we set again, walking on buffalo tracks and crossing village boundaries designated with bamboo gateways. Coming into our village that day we were greeted with the most overwhelming response from kids at the local school; we felt like rock stars! The first ones we met started chanting ‘Hello! Hello!’ from their verandah, then word spread through the school and one of the teachers beat a drum to signify school was out. The kids poured out of their classrooms, squealing as they ran and mobbed us in the school square. Their teachers organised them into a couple of games, and the kids put on their best athletic performances to show us how fast and nimble they were. It was just so cute. We again feasted that night, this time overlooking the bamboo- and banana-leafed valley below, another lovely spot to rest up.

Friendly kids.

Day three and we were off again, walking through more bamboo forests and villages, at one stage passing a family moving their house piece by piece on motorbikes. Anything can be moved by bike in Vietnam! Some more suspension bridges followed, along with more valley vistas, another fine lunch, and more rice paddies. An easy walk beside the river led us back to our starting point of the walk, the village we had first seen on day one. We had circumnavigated the mountain and were back to where we started.

Rice terraces

The house for the night was another comfortable Tay house, with a very interesting ‘Zen’ toilet that had to be seen to be believed. The village ladies found us immediately and lined up all their wares on the fence for our perusal. We decided to get stuck in and the trading commenced in earnest. After another tasty dinner, the old man of the house brought out his rice wine for our enjoyment. That’s where things went a little awry. Well, it would have been rude to refuse…

In the morning there were some groggy heads as we packed up and waited for the bus to arrive. Our walk was over, and we only needed to thank our hosts and take one last photo before we were off.  We headed back to Sapa to freshen up and kill time till we caught the night train back to Hanoi.

The next part of our trip was the Halong Bay cruise, which I was really looking forward to. It certainly didn’t disappoint, with the craggy rock islands too numerous to count and in all shades of blue as they disappeared intothe horizon. It is a breathtaking place.

Beautiful HaLong Bay

There was a perfect mix of sitting on the deck soaking up the view and activity, with a cave visit, look out walk, pearl farm visit, a couple of swims and three hours of kayaking all part of our 2 night trip. The kayaking was definitely the highlight of this part of the trip, and included a paddle through a lightless cave (headtorches a must) which opened out into a lagoon in the centre of the island. It was like paddling into a

silk painting with all the hues and textures, and when we discovered a group of macaques foraging in some trees it just capped off the experience. It was the best way to see this part of Vietnam and I thoroughly recommend it.

Cave paddling

Our boat trip came to an end and we reluctantly headed back to our bus for the ride back to Hanoi. I was sad to leave the green waters and could have stayed longer for more paddles, but all good things must come to an end. All that was left now was to return to Hanoi for some last minute power shopping (there is a lot to be purchased in the Old Quarter!), one more night out together, and to say farewell to our fantastic guide Thang.

To sum it up, Northern Vietnam is a beautiful place full of wonderful friendly people. Experiencing it by foot allowed us to absorb the countryside, the people and their way of life in a way you just can’t get from day trips. Sharing this trip with such a great bunch of people, having so many laughs together and enjoying their company made the experience all the better. Thanks to you all for making this trip a great success!

Cheers,

Tara

To see all the photos from the trip, go to our Facebook page.

Mt Wellington, Hobart

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Recently I had the pleasure of taking in some of the walking tracks on Mt Wellington on the outskirts of Hobart. Standing at 1271m, Mt Wellington is an imposing force on the city, and a drive to the top is high on the list of things to do for any visitor. For those of us more interested in getting to the top the hard way, Mt Wellington can be accessed via bus at the main walking hubs of Fern Tree and The Springs.

My walk started at The Springs with local guide and bushwalking guru John Cannon. John has a vast experience of bushwalking not only in Tasmania but across Australia and around the world, and writes a weekly bushwalking column in the Sunday Tasmanian as well as operating as a walking tour guide.

From the Springs we headed up the Pinnacle Track, a steady climb on a well trodden path. The track climbs through thick forest initially before opening up to views across Hobart and the Tasmanian coast.  Beside the track, dolerite rock columns were starting to appear and gave an extra point of interest to an already picturesque track.

Continuing on, we eventually came to a fork in the track and headed left up the ZigZag Track toward the summit. This track is so named due to a number of switchbacks that weave their way up the steep side of the mountain. This track is also full of sweeping coastal vistas, and provided many a kodak moment as the clouds swept through below us.

As we continued to climb, the temperature cooled, with ice crystals appearing on the rocks. This was a clear indication of what I would be in for at the summit, and I steeled my tropical nerves for the climactic challenge. Once I’d got over this shock, I noticed the bush had started changing again, taking on more of the classic alpine appearance of low bushes and hardy plants that I love. I forgot my anxiety about freezing to death and let the thought of reaching the summit propell me forward.

Eventually the gradient subsided and the track started to level out. At this time, the wind also started to whip across, and within minutes of coming out of the shelter of the Eastern slope the wind had numbed my thighs, fingers and nose and put thoughts of frostbite into my head. Luckily, my inner drama queen remained calm and we donned some warm gear before proceeding to the summit point for the obligatory photo.  Though the clouds didn’t allow an uninterrupted view from the summit, standing at the top of a mountain is always a satisfying moment and it was a pretty sight regardless.

We spent a few minutes inside the summit shelter defrosting and reading the information boards before starting the walk back down. From the summit, we headed down the road before taking the Panorama Track through the scrub to find a sheltered spot for morning tea. A hot cuppa was definitely a welcome treat. The bush had again changed back to eucalypt forest, and I still found myself fascinated by the streaky bark of the trunks.

After our break we continued on, slipping onto the road momentarily before again heading into the bush. This time we were following the Organ Pipes track which would take us past the dominant feature of the mountain which lends it’s name to the track, and where rock climbers can often be found. The Organ Pipes soon came into view, albeit veiled in cloud. They are an impressive sight and we continued along this path to get the best views of the rock before doubling back and descending on the Sawmill Track to the Sphinx Rock lookout. After taking in the view here, we headed along the Lenah Valley Track – a flat, well graded path, perfect for sightseeing – back to the car, finishing off a very satisfying walk that showcased the changing habitats of the Mountain.

John didn’t stop here though as he was keen to show me a couple of other spots on the mountain. We drove down a little way and started on the Circle Track to take in O’Grady Falls and Rocky Whelan’s Cave, a notorious bushranger of the area. These tracks showed a different side again of the mountain, characterised by tree ferns and moss, and made a very green contrast to the higher spots on the mountain.

All in all, Mt Wellington has a huge range of walks suitable for all fitness levels, and it’s proximity to Hobart makes it a convenient choice for visitors as well. The weather shouldn’t be taken lightly and warm, waterproof gear is a must at all times. The range of habitats, combined with spectacular ocean views and unique geology give walkers many features to take in along the way. So if you’re visiting Hobart, do yourself a favour and take the long way to the top of the Mountain.

The bushranger Rocky Whelan's hideout

Gum trees and lichens

Our morning tea spot

O'Grady Falls

Lush mosses.

The Circle Track

Lush growth on the Circle Track

The Lenah Valley track

The Organ Pipes

Eucaplypt with the Organ Pipes in the background

Eucalypt on the Organ Pipes track

A cloudy view

Freezing at the summit point

Pineapple scrub

The summit

Alpine plant life closer to the summit

The clouds roll in

Looking back down the Zig Zag track

Dolerite rock column

Beautiful vista

Plant life on the Pinnacle Track

Eucalypts on The Pinnacle Track

Views from the Pinnacle Track

Mt Bartle Frere, Western Ascent

Wednesday, May 5th, 2010

What an amazing walk this was – long and arduous with plenty of tough conditions to test us, as well as the physical aspect of climbing 900 metres over 7.5km, then having to go back down again. It was certainly thought provoking to be testing ourselves like this on Anzac Day. We spent a few moments discussing the diggers hardships in battlefields like Kokoda, and promised each other we would limit our complaints because of it.

The morning was a longer than anticipated drive to the trail head on Gourka Road, outside of Malanda. It was dark and raining, and we had assessed the situation by agreeing we would see how the day progressed and would turn around if we felt it was not safe.  We set out with a spring in our step, hoping to make up for lost time. The first part of the trail was a mud bath, resulting in some laughter as we sloshed and slipped, while clambering over the occasional tree fallen across the track. The mud eventually subsided as the gradient increased, and it was sometime around here that we noticed the hordes of leeches cartwheeling up our legs, and dropping from the trees in air-raid attacks. After we finished freaking out, more Bushmen was applied and we continued on.

From here, the ascent commenced in earnest. The steep trail consisted of tangled tree roots that form natural staircases up the mountainside. In the middle of one of these climbs, we heard a loud cracking, and a medium sized tree fell around 20 metres away from us. The noise was amazing as it echoed through the rainforest, and really we were lucky to witness it, especially from a safe distance.

The higher we climbed, the more boulder-strewn the trail became, though by this point “trail” is a loose description. Trail markers were present to keep us going the right way, but it was up to us to find the best path between one marker and the next. The boulders required some thought as often the only way was over, though this made for a good change after the steep tree root stairs. Eventually we came to the North West Peak, an open patch where in theory you should have views of the tablelands and the coast – not for us though. On we went.

From here, there were more steep ascents and descents, and more rock hopping with some true climbing required. More boulders, more near vertical sections, more thickly grassed trail sections, and voila! We reached the summit. Again, there was no view through the cloud, but we had the satisfaction of knowing we had made it. After a bite to eat and a bit of a chat we started back down the way we had come.

The way home was a race against the clock to make sure we made it back in sunlight. The downhill, though faster, saw us falling over a lot more as the tree root staircases became treacherously slippery and not at all as helpful as they had been on the way up. The constant pounding of the steep descent tired our legs further and we were ecstatic to finally reach the car.

This is definitely not a track for the unprepared as the physically demanding rough trail has plenty of hazards on it, and is often not a trail at all. Packing light may seem tempting for such a long day, but leaving out emergency and safety equipment is not really sensible.

When the trail guides talk about rock scrambling, take that to mean you will need to climb up and over boulders using tree roots to haul yourself up sometimes near vertical sections. There are also places where you will have to tunnel your way through thick cutting native grasses, which is a test of your nerves as well as your sense of direction. As you near the top this is the norm.

Time is a big factor to consider; we took 6 hours to go up, and another 4 to come down, which is about average pace. Taking into account that sunlight is limited in the rainforest, head torches are a sensible addition to your pack, just in case.

Then of course, there are the leeches. By the hundreds, they will stalk you and clamber up your legs like the marauding blood suckers they are. Take Bushmen, and plenty of it!

So those are the bad bits. The good bits are that you will see pristine rainforest just the way nature intended it, weed free and in perfect harmony, with orchids, crows nest ferns and ancient trees in abundance. The boulders, though treacherous, are marvelous, and you will be lucky to see another person on the track. And of course, you will have made it to the summit of Queensland’s highest peak, which is a great achievement in anyone’s books.

Long and tough, be fit and well prepared and you will enjoy the rewards of this trail.

The start of the track.

On through the rain. 7am in the rainforest is still pretty dark.

The hills are alive... with the sound of leeches...

Brad heading into another boulder hole.

So pretty...

The summit - yay!

Gorillas in the mist - coming back down the North West Peak.

Creek crossing.

Col in a grassy section, smiling through the suffering!

Scenery like this makes the pain worth it.

The aftermath - leech bites and scratches. I think long pants would have been better than shorts for this one.

Tongariro Northern Circuit

Sunday, March 7th, 2010

Hi everyone!

Well I’m back from New Zealand and the North Island’s famous Tongariro Northern Circuit. The walk was impressive, with amazing vistas, great facilities and ever changing weather.

The most walked section of the hike is the one day Tongariro Alpine Crossing, and the section where we commenced our walk. The track is difficult through this part, with an ascension of 765 metres to the highest point of 1886 metres. Alpine weather is typically unpredictable, and we certainly experienced this when the day deteriorated from the light rain predicted to sideways rain and low visibility. As this is the section with the best views and access to both the Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe summits, it was disappointing that we weren’t able to enjoy the fruits of our hard earned labour at the time.

Ketatahi Hut was a welcome site, and we quickly got the gas heater fired up and settled down with a cup of tea to warm our bones. Several bedraggled day walkers wandered in and out of the hut over the course of the afternoon, and we all had a laugh at our miserable day in the rain. After a while we ventured outside again and – eureka! – the cloud had cleared and an amazing valley opened up before us. The spectacular scenery and the way it was revealed through the weather made it feel very special, and suddenly all memories of the day’s suffering disappeared. The newly cleared skies also gave us the opportunity to do a bit of exploring, so we wandered down to the soda springs to fill in time before dinner.

Day two saw us backtracking from Ketatahi Hut up to Emerald Lakes where we had been the previous day in the rain and mist. As we completed the climb back up and rounded the bend, the cloud cleared and we saw the volcanoes we’d walked between the day before for the first time. We headed up the slope again in a buoyant mood and checked out the Emerald Lakes and other sights, and even managed to get a few photos too (ok maybe more than a few!). Luckily the mountain god took pity on us and the weather continued to clear to beautiful crisp days for the remaining days of walking.

The following sections to Oturere Hut, then to Waihohonu Hut and finally Whakapapa Village featured a continually changing landscape and varying views of the three volcanoes, which are worth taking the time to enjoy, particularly at sunrise. The weather stayed clear for the rest of the trip, though our last night at Waihohonu Hut was very cool, with one poor camper showing us the frost on his pack as evidence to this.

These other track sections are not as challenging as the Alpine Crossing, though are still of moderate difficulty. As such, a good level of fitness is needed to ensure walkers have the energy to enjoy the full hike. Hut facilities are great along the entire circuit, and include gas cookers and heaters, and comfortable bunks. The well-positioned huts even have scenic decks which make a nice spot for your evening cuppa. The terrain is unusual and striking, with craters lakes and red-rimmed volcanoes the big ticket items, while ice cold creeks and changing plant life provide interesting details. The often barren landscape may not appeal to some, though for others it will be exactly that difference that draws them in. Unique and challenging, I gave this walk a big thumbs up.

Yours in hiking boots,

Tara

Climbing the ridge past red crater.

The view from Ketatahi Hut.

First view of the volcanoes - happy days!

Rock cairn with Mt Ruapehu, Mt Ngauruhoe and Red Crater in the background.

Emerald Lakes

The descent from Emerald Lakes.

On the way to Oturere Hut .

Oturere Hut

Sunrise Day 3, Mt Ngauruhoe

Windswept bush in the sand dunes.

The valley on the way to Waihohonu Hut.

Ohinepango Springs

One of the many flowering plants.

Taranaki Falls